Understanding INCI Labels
INCI names can look intimidating. Here's how to read ingredient lists like a pro — and why order matters.
What is INCI?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It's a standardised naming system used worldwide so that the same ingredient has the same name on every product, regardless of country or brand.
When you flip a product over and see that long list of scientific-sounding names — that's the INCI list.
Why INCI names look so strange
INCI names are based on Latin botanical names (for plant extracts) and standardised chemical nomenclature. So "shea butter" becomes Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, and "vitamin E" becomes Tocopheryl Acetate.
This isn't meant to confuse you — it's meant to be universally understood across all languages. A French dermatologist and a Japanese chemist can both read the same label.
The order matters
Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration. The first ingredient is present in the highest amount, and the last is present in the smallest amount.
There's an important threshold: ingredients at 1% or below can be listed in any order. In practice, this means:
1. The first 5-8 ingredients make up the bulk of the product (often 80%+ by weight)
2. Active ingredients at effective concentrations usually appear in the top third
3. Ingredients near the bottom are typically preservatives, fragrances, or colorants at very low concentrations
Common patterns to recognise
Water base
Most products start with Aqua (Water). If water is first, the product is water-based — which is the majority of skincare.
Emollients and oils
Look for: Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane (silicones), Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (coconut-derived). These make the product feel smooth.
Preservative system
Usually near the end: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate. These keep the product safe from bacteria — they're necessary and usually present at very low levels.
Fragrance
Listed as "Parfum" (or "Fragrance" in the US). This is a catch-all term that can represent dozens of individual fragrance chemicals. Some people prefer fragrance-free products during pregnancy.
How to read a label in 30 seconds
1. Check the first 5 ingredients — these are what the product is mostly made of
2. Scan for known concerns — retinol, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, oxybenzone
3. Look for "Parfum" — decide if you're comfortable with fragrance
4. Check the end — preservatives here are normal and at tiny concentrations
Or skip all of this and use our ingredient checker — paste the INCI list and get an instant safety breakdown.
The CI number trick
Colour additives are listed with "CI" followed by a number (e.g., CI 77891 is titanium dioxide used as a white pigment). These are standardised colour index numbers.
Common INCI translations
| What you know it as | INCI name |
|---|---|
| Vitamin C | Ascorbic Acid |
| Vitamin E | Tocopherol |
| Vitamin B3 | Niacinamide |
| Shea Butter | Butyrospermum Parkii Butter |
| Coconut Oil | Cocos Nucifera Oil |
| Aloe Vera | Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice |
| Hyaluronic Acid | Sodium Hyaluronate |
| Retinol | Retinol |
| Glycerin | Glycerin |
INCI names are your friend — once you learn to read them, you'll never be misled by marketing again.